Detailed summary, analysis, and vocabulary from Vikram Seth's travelogue "Heaven Lake"
Author: Vikram Seth
Source: Excerpt from his travelogue "Heaven Lake" (1983).
This chapter describes the author's journey from China to India, specifically focusing on his time in Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal. It highlights the sharp contrast between two major temples—Pashupatinath and Baudhnath—and provides a vivid sensory description of the city's atmosphere.
Vikram Seth visits two famous temples in Kathmandu. He draws a striking comparison between the atmosphere inside and around these holy places.
The author describes the atmosphere at Pashupatinath as chaotic and noisy.
• Restrictions: A sign proclaims "Entrance for Hindus Only".
• Chaos: Priests, hawkers, devotees, tourists, cows, monkeys, and pigeons roam everywhere.
• Rituals: People struggle to get the priest's attention; a princess appears and people bow; a corpse is being cremated on the banks of the Bagmati river.
• Pollution: Washerwomen are washing clothes and children are bathing in the holy river.
In sharp contrast, the Baudhnath Stupa is described as a place of immense stillness and peace.
• Structure: A massive white dome with an "immense white dome" surrounded by a road.
• Serenity: There are no crowds, no noise, and a sense of stillness prevails.
• Shops: Small shops owned by Tibetan immigrants surround it, selling felt bags, silver jewelry, and antiques.
• Absence: There is no chaotic crowd like at the Hindu temple.
| Feature | Pashupatinath (Hindu) | Baudhnath (Buddhist) |
|---|---|---|
| Atmosphere | Febrile confusion (Chaos, Noise) | Haven of quietness (Stillness, Peace) |
| Crowd | Priests, hawkers, monkeys, pushing crowds | No crowds, calm environment |
| Activity | Worship, cremation, bathing, fighting monkeys | Meditation, quiet business (Tibetan shops) |
| Key Phrase | "Atmosphere of febrile confusion" | "Ring of silence" |
Vikram Seth gives a sensory description of the busy streets of Kathmandu. It is not just a religious place but a vibrant commercial hub.
Unlike a serious pilgrim, the author indulges in simple pleasures. He eats corn, drinks Coca-Cola (a "nauseating orange drink"), and buys reading material. This makes the travelogue feel personal and realistic.
Before leaving, the author notices a flute seller standing in a corner of the square near his hotel. This figure leaves a deep impact on him.
• He holds a pole with about fifty flutes (bansuris and cross-flutes) sticking out like quills of a porcupine.
• Unlike other hawkers who shout to sell, he plays the flute slowly, meditatively, and without excessive display.
• Occasionally, he makes a sale, but in a very off-handed way, as if it were incidental to his playing.
Vikram Seth compares the music of the flute to the "commonality of all mankind."
• He notes that while different cultures have different flutes (Japanese Shakuhachi, Deep Bansuri of Hindustani music, recorders of South America), the appeal of the flute is universal.
• The flute requires breath (living breath) to produce sound. It is the closest instrument to the human voice.
• He realizes that previously he would have returned home thinking only of the details of his journey, but now, this simple music affects him deeply.
Nervous excitement or chaotic activity
Used to describe Pashupatinath
A place of safety or refuge
Used to describe Baudhnath
To announce officially or publicly
The sign at the temple entrance
A harsh, discordant mixture of sounds
The noise of the Kathmandu streets
Casual; done without much thought
The flute seller's way of selling
Way of placing fingers on an instrument
Technique of playing the flute
Q: How does the author describe Kathmandu's busiest streets?
A: The author describes them as narrow and busy, filled with religious shrines, hawkers, street vendors, and stray cows. It is a noisy place with radios playing, car horns honking, and vendors shouting.
Q: Why does the author call Baudhnath Stupa a "haven of quietness"?
A: Unlike the chaotic Pashupatinath temple, the Baudhnath Stupa has no crowds. It is surrounded by a ring road and quiet Tibetan shops. The immense white dome creates a sense of stillness and peace.
Q: "To hear any flute is to be drawn into the commonality of all mankind." Explain.
Answer: The author believes that the flute is unique because it produces sound through human breath, making it an extension of the living being. Every culture in the world has its own version of the flute (bamboo, reed, etc.) and specific musical scales. Despite these differences, the mournful and melodious sound of the flute appeals to everyone universally. It connects the author to the shared human experience, making him feel a sense of nostalgia and belonging even in a foreign land.